Chapter 493 Different ways of cooking the same ingredients - mustard dumplings and Qianlong cabbage!(1/2)
"I understand your eagerness to show off your manhood, but you can't act... What is this? Duck feet?"
Chen Yan came to the dining table with vague thoughts. When she saw the mustard duck feet placed on it, coupled with the alluring but not overpowering aroma of mustard, her eyes immediately straightened.
"Let me go, my brother-in-law made mustard duck feet? It's great, I'm craving for this bite."
Mr. Chen wanted to ridicule just now, but in this situation, the sarcasm has been forgotten. Now she just wants to feel the mustard.
Shu Yun handed over a pair of kuai, and Chen Yan took it and picked up a duck paw and put it into her mouth.
There is a slight cold feeling in the mouth at first, followed by the aroma of sweet and sour and sesame oil, and then, a cool and spicy taste gradually rises from the mouth.
Take a bite of the cool and crisp duck feet, and the spiciness of the mustard begins to change.
The more you chew, the stronger the mustard flavor becomes.
The stronger the taste, the more you want to chew the duck paw and swallow it quickly.
As the mouth chews, the spicy taste of mustard rushes through the mouth, with obvious impact. When the duck paw is eaten, tears flow down in clusters.
I can’t tell whether I was crying with joy or bursting into tears, but it was very happy anyway.
"Comfortable, so enjoyable!"
Chen Yan wiped her eyes with a tissue and felt that eating mustard was really comfortable. The pores all over her body seemed to have been opened by the strong taste of mustard.
Lin Xu had never eaten this dish in the past. He tasted it, looked at everyone and asked:
"Did you put too much mustard?"
Shen Jiayue and others immediately said:
"No more, no more, this is how you eat mustard duck feet."
"It's cool, sweet and sour, and has a crispy texture. It's so satisfying to eat like this."
"Many restaurants deliberately reduce the amount of mustard, and it always tastes like it's hanging in mid-air. It's not as smooth as the mustard."
Mustard dishes are meant to be refreshing and refreshing. If this function is lost, it will become a sweet and sour cold dish, and the essence of mustard dishes will be lost.
While they were eating, Shen Guofu and his wife also came upstairs.
After tasting the mustard duck feet, the two of them agreed:
"It's delicious. One bite will make your whole body feel refreshed."
"The duck feet are well cooked, chewy and crispy...Xiao Xu's skills are really amazing."
Shen Guofu ate two duck feet and began to look forward to the mustard dumplings.
Mustard duck feet are generally only ordered in restaurants, and duck feet are not cheap. Relatively speaking, mustard duck feet are more homely.
Mustard Duner is a classic Beijing-style snack that originated from the Manchu people. However, because of its low cost and simple preparation, it has been passed down from generation to generation in the capital.
Lin Xu said:
"I'm going to make it right away. If I hurry up, I can have it for lunch."
Shen Guofu smiled and said:
"It's okay, don't be afraid of being late for a good meal. By the way, Xiaoxu, when making mustard dumplings, remember to also make some cucumber dumplings. Just like mustard dumplings, they are also very delicious."
Cucumber Duner?
Lin Xu was stunned for a moment before he realized that this was the Jinmen version of Mustard Duner.
The method is somewhat similar to pickling cucumbers, but the pickled cucumbers are pickled with salt, while the cucumbers are pickled with white sugar.
Use white sugar to remove the moisture from cucumbers, then add mustard sauce to pickle them. The resulting cucumbers are sour, sweet and refreshing, with a rich mustard flavor and a refreshing taste that is no less refreshing than mustard made from cabbage.
Back in the kitchen, Lin Xu started making mustard dumplings.
There are several ways to make mustard dumplings.
The traditional method is to select cabbage that is long and slender and relatively solid. After removing the roots and leaves, the whole cabbage is cut into cabbage cubes about one inch high.
Carefully place these cabbage cubes in a colander and blanch them three times with boiling water in the pot.
Then put them one by one in a deeper pot.
After laying out one layer, apply a layer of freshly mixed yellow mustard, sprinkle with a layer of white sugar, and then start to put the second layer, so that all the layers are placed in the basin.
Seal the mouth of the pot and cover it with a small cotton curtain or quilt that was used by everyone in the past when making pickles.
Three or two days later, the mustard cubes in the basin are ready. Put them on the plate one by one, and then grab some of the pickled mustard stock from the bottom of the basin, and eat them cold, not to mention how enjoyable it is.
The mustard dumplings made this way can be eaten for a long time as long as they are stored well.
But the disadvantage is that you have to wait for many days, and the mustard powder cannot be made in advance. It has to be made at the same time when stewing. If the yellow mustard used is not good, it is likely to cause the dish to overturn.
Therefore, in order to better grasp the taste and to eat it as soon as possible, there is a new way to make the mustard dumpling.
For example, if Lin Xu makes it now, you can eat it on the same day, which is not only fast, but also easier to operate.
He removed the outer layers of the cabbage, cut off the upper leaves, and then broke the cabbage into pieces.
While doing this, boil water on the stove.
When the water is boiling, put the cabbage in piece by piece, blanch it for about 20 seconds, take it out and put it directly into the cold water.
The traditional method is to put the whole cabbage pile on a colander and boil the water, but the pickling process of the cabbage is too slow, so tear off the cabbage pieces and blanch them in water, which is a much faster process.
Take out the cabbage that has been cooled again and remove as much excess water as possible.
Then put all the cabbage leaves into a basin, add some yellow mustard sauce, a little salt, a little mustard oil, then add a tablespoon of white sugar, more than half a tablespoon of rice vinegar, and more than half a tablespoon of mature vinegar.
Stir evenly with the cabbage so that these ingredients hang evenly on the surface of the cabbage.
Then put it in the refrigerator and refrigerate for one hour.
The purpose of pickling is to shrink the water so that the flavor can penetrate into the cabbage.
The snack of Mustard Duner actually relies on the crispiness of cabbage, so use cabbage leaves as much as possible. If there are too many cabbage leaves, it will taste soft and lose the crispiness, and this snack will be lost.
The essence of.
Therefore, when cooking, it is best to cut off the upper half of the leaves of the cabbage.
As for the cut leaves, they will not be wasted and can be made into another cold dish in Beijing - Qianlong cabbage.
The urban cuisine of Beijing people basically revolves around the two condiments of mustard and sesame sauce, and Qianlong cabbage is a typical representative of sesame sauce dishes.
The method is very simple. Dilute the sesame paste with honey, white sugar, rice vinegar and other condiments, then pour it onto the torn cabbage leaves and stir evenly.
This delicacy is completely opposite to mustard dumpling.
Mustard Dunerchong, you can smell the pungent smell of mustard from a long way away.
But Qianlong cabbage is fragrant, and the aroma of sesame sauce is not overpowering at all, but has a subtle fragrance.
In terms of taste, one is crispy and the other is soft and tender, and there are obvious differences.
These two dishes can be regarded as a vivid display of the two major cold dish delicacies in Beijing, but these two dishes still use the same ingredients, which feels like two sides of one body.
Lin Xu tore the cut cabbage leaves apart piece by piece, rinsed them with clean water, and put them in a basket to control the water.
Then use a larger mixing bowl, add some sesame paste to it, then add a tablespoon of light soy sauce, a little dark soy sauce, a tablespoon of soft sugar, a small spoon of honey, two tablespoons of rice vinegar, stir and mix.
Stir in the sesame paste.
The reason why we use soft white sugar instead of white granulated sugar is because white sugar is difficult to melt and will taste like small particles when mixed with cabbage, so we use soft white sugar that is easy to melt instead.
After the sesame paste is boiled, pour the water-controlled cabbage leaves into a basin, add the prepared sesame paste, and mix well.
It’s not easy to get the flavor of this dish just by stirring it with a tassel. You need to wear gloves and gently stir it so that the sesame paste hangs evenly on the cabbage leaves.
Mix well and sprinkle with cooked white sesame seeds.
Marinate for a few minutes to allow the salt and sugar in the condiments to remove the moisture from the leaves, which will make them taste softer and more delicious.
After Guo Xinghai finished the work at hand, he saw the Qianlong cabbage mixed by Lin Xu and said with a smile:
"I didn't know about this dish in the past. It was only after the two hosts from Jinmen quarreled that I learned about such a cold dish... Is this really the cold dish that Qianlong had eaten?"
"I've never tasted it. This dish has only been around for less than 30 years. It's considered the younger brother of Beijing cuisine, and it's incomparable to Mustard Dun'er."
Zhuang Yizhou has worked at Yanjing Hotel for several years and knows this dish quite well.
However, although he is a young boy in Beijing cuisine, Qianlong Baicai is very famous, especially the last time the two hosts had a quarrel, which made everyone on the Internet imitate Qianlong Baicai.
Even some foreign UP owners have carefully studied the methods.
Although there are elements of curiosity and popularity, it has to be said that the word Qianlong makes this dish more topical.
Lin Xu flipped through the "Imperial Food Record" at home, which specifically recorded two cold dishes that Emperor Qianlong had eaten, one was bird's nest mixed with chicken, and the other was mixed with tiger vegetables.
There is no trace of Qianlong cabbage at all. Even cabbage appears as a side dish. There is no dish made with cabbage as raw material.
Moreover, the two dishes of bird's nest mixed with chicken and tiger vegetables were not served during dinner time.
The "Royal Dinner Record" records a mid-day meal, which is served on the table other than the main meal. The reason is very simple, that is, no noodles are allowed on the cold dishes.
Therefore, Qianlong never tasted Qianlong cabbage, and he did not invent this dish.
Simply because sesame paste is yellow, and high-end cabbage leaves are also yellow, it has gained the reputation of the royal family. In the food circle, the Internet celebrity of the Qing royal family is naturally Qianlong.
To be continued...